In which our intrepid hero returns to America

I’ve been in America for almost two weeks now. I’ve seen people I haven’t seen in a year, eaten foods I’ve missed, downloaded a bunch of stuff for my school and my own use, and enjoyed the novelty of hot running water. But it hasn’t been all easy.

Culture shock is something that you expect to encounter upon entering a culture different from your own. It’s not something you expect to experience when you return to your own culture. You get used to doing things a certain way, buying things in a certain store, or having a normal morning routine, and you return to find that this business has moved, the dishes aren’t in the same cupboard, the road is closed for construction, and it’s shocking. Some things are easy, like taking a shower or washing the dishes. Some things are hard, like remembering to turn on the vent fan when you take a shower. Other things are just plain overwhelming.

Take department stores, for example. When you go to Ghana, you get used to having only a few choices. Your laundry soap is either Omo, Klin, or an off-brand; you brush your teeth with Pepsodent, Close-Up, or whatever off-brand they have that week. Jam is a delicacy, the bread is all the same, and the peanut butter you buy in your market comes in a small plastic bag. No Jif, no Skippy, no store brand. Your day is still busy, but you only have about 600 options when you do 100 things. You also get into a habit of impulse shopping — I see basil, I need basil, and I might not see basil for another 2 months, so I buy 3 jars of it.

Thus, when you walk into Target and see 25 varieties of Tide, 120 different types of toothpaste, and jar upon jar of strawberry jam next to 16 different types of wheat bread, you feel a bit floored. And because you see stuff you “need” and you are used to it being gone when you turn your head, you put all of these “needed” items in your cart. You see everything, you want everything; at the same time, you see everything and want nothing. Because when it comes down to it, you don’t really “need” all that much. Jam is nice, but peanut butter and banana sandwiches are just as tasty and just as filling. And as long as the soap gets your clothes clean, the washing powder is a commodity product. So you take the $600 of stuff out of your cart and get only the stuff you really do need.

Internet is another one of these things that floors you. As a Peace Corps Volunteer in Ghana, one gets used to having slow, unreliable internet. And even though I’ve had internet access through my cell phone at site, I’ve grown used to using it for checking my email, researching topics for lesson plans, and downloading software updates. So, when I get to an internet connection and download anti-virus updates that normally take 4 hours in Ghana, but take 15 minutes in the U.S., I’m faced with the dilemma of “OK, now what?”

And throughout all of this, I find myself at the mercy of two conflicting emotions: I want to do lots of stuff, because I’m only home for two weeks and once I get back to Ghana, there will be no chocolate cake with coconut topping and no Target. On the other hand, I know that once I get back to Ghana, I am going to be working hard at site to accomplish projects, write lesson plans, and work with my students. So if I don’t take this opportunity to just sit down and do nothing, I will have taken a vacation for nothing.

I apologize if I haven’t seen some of you, or spent as much time with some of you as I would have liked; but I thank you all for your kind words and wishes and appreciate the time you have spent in supporting me as a Peace Corps Volunteer. For those of you whose spam filters like to eat friendly messages, Caroline and I will be having lunch on Saturday at 12:30pm at the Chatterbox Pub in St. Paul. The Chatterbox is located at 800 Cleveland Avenue South. I understand that some of you have prior plans or live too far away to make a trip up to St. Paul, but all are invited anyway.

3 days from now, I return to Ghana. I’ll have a new sense of perspective, a renewed well of energy, and  a better idea what I want to do when I grow up. For now, I close again with thank you and a promise to see you all again real soon.

Hurry up and wait

It’s interesting how little it takes to make me happy.

Case in point: I spent 4 hours with about 150 of my colleagues standing on an airport tarmac with nothing to eat or drink, waiting to see Barack Obama for 30 minutes. When he finally arrived, we were nothing short of ecstatic. When he mentioned the Peace Corps, we lost it. When he came around to shake hands, we *really* lost it.

Of course, my feet ached with a vengeance and my body was not happy about the whole lack of food or water, but this was one of the few times I was happy to be in Accra.

Accra, as most Peace Corps Volunteers in Ghana will tell you, is not something you enjoy; it’s something you endure. Getting in is a pain (all the roads around it are in some state of perpetual construction/repair), getting out is a pain (Circle station just. plain. sucks.) and everything is at least 2x as expensive as the rest of Ghana. Its one redeeming quality would be the food you can get there — nothing takes the sting out of travel quite like a nice burger.

And now I’m back in Seikwa. I returned to a garden full of weeds, a house full of cobwebs, and a cat who let me know in no uncertain terms that she was *pissed off* about having to sleep outside for 3 weeks. Nevertheless, I was happy to finally sleep in my own bed and wear clothing other than the 3 shirts and 2 pair of trousers that I had taken on the road.

I also returned to a most pleasant surprise: the girl’s dormitory has electricity! After almost a year, I finally get a proper computer lab! I enlisted my students to help me clean out the room and move the computers down into it. All I need now is a couple of electrical outlets, and I’m in business.

The computer lab is one of those examples of the pace of life in Ghana, which I think is best described by the term “punctuated equilibrium”. It might take 6 months or more for something to happen — the construction of a building, the paving of a road, the digging of a well, or the arrival of new equipment — but when it finally happens, it happens fast. I’m told that sinking the power poles, stringing the lines, and connecting the building to the grid took about 3 days, and the electrical meters are due to be installed on Monday. It’s a complete departure from the rigidly-scheduled American way of life, where being 10 minutes late is cause for alarm, and despite being chaotically unpredictable, it somehow works.

Alright; time to make dinner and relax. Enjoy your weekends, everyone!

Jack of All Trades, Master of None

The education trainees are back in the schools for practicum, and the omnibus trainees (those who will work in the other program sectors) are out on field trip to see what exactly their jobs will entail. Meanwhile, I sit here, contemplating what it means to be a volunteer while I watch the trainees teach and attend language classes.

It’s interesting, being back here. I originally compared it to visiting your old high school, but I’ve come to the conclusion that that’s not quite right. Being a PCVRF is kind of like going back to your old high school as a teacher; you know all of the good places to eat/drink/hang out, but you’re not a student anymore. You can observe, and commiserate, but you no longer share in the experience — you’re helping to provide others with a new experience of their very own.

And you also have the grown-up problems that come along with being an honest-to-jeebus dirty-hippie PCV. For example, you’re now expected to take care of yourself; no host family to feed you, do your laundry, or help you with your homework. And you’re still at someone else’s house.

In addition, I’ve been living out of my backpack for going on three weeks now, and while I enjoy watching the new trainees learn and grow, I’m ready to get back to my own bed in my own village. My students, though I’ve given them work to do in my absence, are definitely suffering for not having an ICT teacher. And my cat has now been living outside since the end of June.

One of my fellow education PCVs said something that really applies to this situation: “There are terms you spend at your school, and there are terms you spend doing stuff for Peace Corps. You don’t have both. It’s one or the other.” I didn’t quite understand that until now. When I came here, I thought I’d be serving the people in my village and relying on Peace Corps to help me do that. It turns out that I’m actually serving two communities: the people of Seikwa, and the motley crew of Peace Corps Volunteers.

There’s no way to do service to the one without giving the other short shrift; so I do the best I can and pick the one I think needs the most help at the time.

STARS, Cars, and Asafo

I’ve been traveling. A lot. Let’s start from the top:

– On Sunday the 21st of June, I set off for Kumasi with two of my best Form 2 students, William and Linda. They, along with 60 of their peers from all over Ghana, spent a week at the STARS Conference at Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology. The STARS (Students Taking Action Reaching for Success) Conference is a chance for students to meet other students their age from around Ghana, get first-hand information about higher education, learn leadership skills, and get information on HIV/AIDS and how to teach their peers about it, all on neutral ground. For some of these kids, it was the first time they’ve ever left their village.

Yours truly spent the week updating the website (conveniently located at http://starsconference.blogspot.com), uploading pictures, and running around for the conference organizers. We were exhausted at the end of the week, but the kids loved it, and that’s the important part.

– On Saturday, the 27th of June, I put my kids back on a bus to Seikwa and spent the day working on ICT Think Tank stuff (someone gave us a laptop, and I have plans. It’s gonna be awesome.) and just relaxing before the next stage of my journey.

– On Sunday, the 28th of June, I packed up all my stuff, headed into Kejetia, and left Kumasi for the Peace Corps Pre-Service Training villages. Currently, I am resting my weary head in the little village of Asafo. It’s strange being back here; in a lot of ways, it’s like visiting your old high school. I spent a lot of time running around between language classes, practicum teaching, and the Peace Corps hub office, and it’s interesting to see how the place has changed without you.

I’ll be here in Asafo/the greater Kukurantumi metropolitan area until Tuesday, the 14th of July. For some reason, my normal internet access through Tigo isn’t working here, so I’ll have to lug my laptop to the internet cafe for the time being.

Until next time…

Cheers,
Grant

Can I have a do-over? Seriously?

I’m having a bad day.

It started this morning at 5:30am, when I woke up feeling achy and exhausted. I laid in bed for 30 minutes hoping that the problem would alleviate itself, but alas, I am still achy even as I write this.

I then headed to school with my Vision Quester. I went to class expecting my students to have done their homework. Because I had been traveling, I gave them a group project before I left and told them it would be due the day I returned. I would be gone for 9 days, so I gave them 2 weeks to do it. That works, right?
Wrong.

I came into my first class, and less than half of them had done it. Not only was I angry, I was also disappointed and frustrated.

Ever the optimist, I went into my second class to be presented with exactly the same thing: 45 students out of 100 did the group project I had assigned, and the rest of them were frantically trying to finish it in class.

At that point, I was ready to go home and call it a day. Unfortunately, the day had barely begun.

I went home for a little bit to wash some laundry and put it out to dry. The minute I hung the last article of clothing on the line, it started to drizzle. Being tired and in no mood to take all the laundry in, I decided to leave it hang there, in a metaphorical nose-thumbing to mother nature.

We then went to market (that is, my Vision Quester and I) and bought some vegetables, a few two-yards, and some glorious, glorious FanIce. That, as I think of it now, was the eye of the storm.

I went to the computer lab to set up shop to discover a missing power strip, no chairs, and a mob of raucous, unruly students. After making one kneel in the grass for “acting like a goat” (she tried to budge her way into the lab under my arms as I was standing in the door) and sacking two for hitting another student, things calmed down a bit. I jury-rigged the power strip situation, got everything running, and have since spent the last 5 hours answering student questions.

My Vision Quester, on the other hand, has been awesome. He’s helped out with chores, talked to people, and just been an all-around good guy. Kudos, Mike.

Alright. I’m tired. Time to wind this party down and hope that I can still buy food in town after 6pm. Cheers, y’all.